Even though another few hours of shut eye would have been amazing, we're all ready for the day! On the docket today, the Hagia Sophia, one of the most eloborate Christian churches of its time; the Blue Mosque, one of the many working Muslim temples in the city, and the Topkapi Palace in the center of the city. Keep on the lookout over the next few hours for updates!
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Just got back to the hotel after lots and lots of walking around this gorgeous and lively city. For those folks who check in with the blog often, I'll post all the pictures first, then write a description for each one after (it might take a while for each caption). Otherwise, enjoy!
As promised, these photos are just some of the magnificent tulip gardens planted across Istanbul. Originally, these flowers came from Central Asia (as did most of modern Turks' ancestors) and were planted here. Once the Dutch arrived, during a time in which they were one of the most powerful economic nations in the world, they shipped to bulbs back to western Europe, and have since flourished worldwide. These gardens have only come back to the city in the last decade, as a sort of cultural revolution across Turkey.
Just a mere 500 paces from our hotel (no, I didn't count them...) sits a 15th C. university building, part of the University of Istanbul campus (there are several more buildings across the city. This particular German inspired structure currently houses the Literature faculty of the university, while also holding Literature classes for students. Even though we are more than 5000 miles from home, we can't get too far from school.
Though these are in ruins today, the Tripoli was originally the gate leading into the city during the 3rd century. This structure was a massive four-legged archway, with each leg comprised of 4 pillars (the bases of one of these legs is shown here. Across the street lay two other legs while the fourth is shown in the background, approximately 50 feet further down the street.
This picture is of a small, gated Ottoman cemetery dated sometime before 1920. Inside these limestone and metal gated areas rest approximately 20 headstones (each with one or two bodies, we weren't entirely sure), each engraved with epitaphs written in Turkish using the Arabic alphabet. This is interesting as Turks stopped using the Arabic alphabet (switching to the modern Turkish alphabet) around the mid-1920s, when the secular-minded Ataturk came into power in Istanbul. Along with this change brought a whole realm of cultural changes throughout the nation, including the lack of tulips in their public parks until recently.
This pillar had a statue of Constantine, arguably the most influential leader in the history of Constantinople/Istanbul, on the top during his reign (c. 380 AD). However, the statue disappeared mysteriously, though the pillar still remains in the Grand Bazaar, the center of the ancient city (around which the modern city was built).
The previous three photos are the exterior of the Blue Mosque (or Sultan Ahmed Mosque to the locals). The blue color of the domes and the slight tint of the outer walls comes from the blue tiles lining the inside of the building (some of the next pictures show this a bit better), and the lead domes that make up this massive structure. The lead domes do have to be replaced every 20 or so years, as the elements eat away at them relatedly quickly by modern standards. The building is made mostly of limestone, though some marble is used within the building to support the arches and domes that make up the roof. Even though the Muslim faith calls for a simple lifestyle, this mosque certainly does not fit that mold.
The blue color on the top of the domes was inspired by Chinese tradition, as much of Turkish history prior to the Ottoman empire consisted of invading various parts of China and bringing back the spoils of war, including ideas regarding architecture, science, and technology. I wouldn't consider building one of these blue tiles though: a five inch by five inch tile will run you about $60,000 on the market...
These stained glass windows (all along one wall of the mosque only) symbolize one of the most crucial aspects of the Muslim faith. Five times per day (though only 30% of Turks follow this practice), Muslims must face Mecca and pray. This wall with the stained glass windows face the south-east, the proper direction. Also, every Friday, Islam's Sabbath day, the religious leader will climb the steps of the Minbar (the pencil shaped structure in the background) to deliver the sermon to the crowd.
Here are all 16 of the ladies on our trip, each wearing traditional head coverings as provided by the Mosque. All women are required to cover their hair while praying in these mosques, while most Muslim women still so cover their hair and most of their bodies in public, in accordance to Islam's modesty clauses. All visitors are also required to remove their shoes and wear clothing long enough to cover their ankles before entering the holy place, attributing to the Muslim views of gender roles and gender identity.
Outside of the Blue Mosque, it is common for Muslims to wash their hands, faces, feet, and forearms before going to pray. When these people spiritually wash, they first start with their hands held like a bowl and rub each body part three times with soap and water. This practice is designed to clean the soul of the individual as well as keep the Mosque a bit cleaner also.
Each of these three photos depict a special pillar either build or transported to the Hippodrome, a elliptical shaped ancient racetrack used to race horse-led chariots for the Roman Emperors (similar to Roman Coliseum, but without the fight-to-the-death matches). Along the infield run these pillars, each attempting to demonstrate the Roman Empire's ability to show off its power and show where its army had last conquered. The top photo contains a story about an Egyptian pharaoh more than 3500 years ago which had originally rested in the Carnack Temple in Egypt before moving to the Hippodrome. Second, this pillar made of the melted-down weapons of the defeated Persian army after 476AD, was originally three intertwined snakes with the heads coming out of the top, representing the hope that the Greek Apollo in Delphi would bring goof fortune to the empire in Constantinople. Finally, this pillar was once lined with shining, mirror-like bronze; so bright that those living on the other side of the Bosporus could see its splendor. However, the Ottoman government in the late 1880s were forced to melt down the bronze to help reset the economy during a bout with economic recession.
This fountain, also located within the Hippodrome, was a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany. During his reign, he made a deal with the Ottoman Sultan to refurbish a Turkish temple in Berlin, which was a rousing success. In return, the Kaiser kept the original temple name and gave the Sultan this fountain.
This photo is of the famous Hagia Sophia (meaning Holy Wisdom in Latin). During its third rebuild (the first was destroyed by an earthquake and the second was ransacked and burned in the Nike Rebellion, revolting against Justinian, the ruler at the time), it became one of the most fabulous Christian churches of the world, not matched for more than 1000 years when the Sistine Chapel and others were erected. In 726 AD, Pope Leo III devised a plan to remove iconography from all Christian churches, meaning that all paintings, mosaics, and statues of Jesus Christ or any other icon must be destroyed. However, this was reversed about 120 years later, and soon paintings and mosaics returned to the interior.
This section of pillars on the south side of the Hagia Sophia shows the skill the architects had with borrowing materials from other buildings and religions. These pillars were originally set in a Pagan temple, though the Justinian government did their best to kill any aspect of the Pagan religion. Over some time, this polytheistic religion was all but dead, though its pillars remained as a political statement of how powerful the Christian faith was in the city.
This photo is one that certainly will never be repeated in any religious building in the world. When the Turks conquered the city of Constantinople, they eventually (though not immediately) turned the Hagia Sophia into a mosque. However, for reasons unknown for certain, the Sultan Mehmet left the iconography mostly untouched, though the Muslim faith clearly states that no icons should be shown in Muslim mosques or homes, especially those of another faith. Here, two names of Muslim church rules are shown in the green circles, while Mother Mary with her baby, Jesus Christ, is seated in the middle on the ceiling. Absolutely stunning the combo here.
Here again is an example of where this mosaic (Mother Mary on the left, Jesus in the Middle, and John the Baptist on the right, were only partially destroyed, a very strange occurrence in this part of the world.
This photo shows Jesus standing with Constantine (right) and Justinian (left) three icons that will never be forgotten in this city for sure.
Beneath the streets of Istanbul lay the ancient Cistern, a reservoir holding all the city water for all the residence in ancient times (it is an underground museum today). Two of these 336 pillars have Medusa's head etched into the side, for reasons no one is exactly sure about (shown below). Though it looks a little spooky, it was one of the most enjoyable experiences of the day for most everyone (though the dripping water down the back of our necks was not ideal).
This in the entrance gate to Topkapi Palace on the northwest side of the city, our last stop of the day. This was the residence of the Ottoman Sultan throughout the duration of the empire. Here, all his meals were prepared in massive "cooking factories," his male and female servants completed their daily activities, all the while military training sessions could have taken place on the grounds. Below is another photo of an entrance gate, though serving a different purpose than that of the gate leading to the rest of the city.
This gate, known as the gate of Felicity (happiness) served several different purposes for the Sultan. This was the location where he would receive distinguished guests to the empire, including foreign ambassadors and military officials. Also, when a new sultan was selected, he would first sit on his throne at this very point. Finally, on every Friday, the Palace chefs would make massive cauldrons full of soup to be shared with the rest of the public in celebration of the Sabbath. However, there were several occasions where those not in favor of the sultan's plan of action on a particular issue would tip over these cauldrons, spilling their contents and showing the sultan they were not pleased with the political taken that had taken place.
And now for the HIGHLIGHTS!
There is quite a large stray dog population in Istanbul (awesome for the dog lovers on the trip). However, these pooches are all neutered, vaccinated, and checked by the city government, so they are never left completely helpless.
Big thanks to Fatima and Nicole for doing their presentation of the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Place respectively. Great job ladies!
In addition to her wonderful presentation, Fatima was also involved in a situation where a tourist fell into the ankle deep water at the Cistern... Those she claims he just fell, we will never fully know was caused it... (Just kidding, though the guy did have some wet pants...)
And finally, the last HIGHLIGHT goes to Michalis for making us all laugh at the Blue Mosque today. When all the women in our group were ready to take their picture in their head coverings, he made a wonderful appearance with a covering of his own (his sweater). Unfortunately, no picture could be taken because his wife pushed him out of the shot...
I follow the blog every trip and so far this is becoming the best yet! Keep up the excellent commentary.
ReplyDeleteNice job on the blog! Love it!
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