Thursday, April 30, 2015

Day 6- Cappadocia

Here's tomorrow's adventure! But for today, more Cappadocia!



First stop- the Goreme Open Air Museum!




Some of the views on the way to the museum, seeing all the volcanic rock, most of them millions of years old.



These two photos are of a monastery and nunnery respectively, most likely from the Roman Empire period, but it is impossible to tell, as dating a rock carving is nearly impossible (unlike some other forms of art or masonry).  Since practicing Christianity was a crime in ancient Rome, these people remained together in small communities for safety.  Though they're a bit hard to see, each door in the side of the mountain is shaped like a keyhole, something that is referenced on all of our site tickets so far, as Turkey is sometimes considered the "Key of Civilization."


One of the most important figures of this site is Saint Basel.  During his time in this community, he devised the foundations of monastic life, some of which are still practiced today.  In fact, his main message to those entering the monk or nun lifestyle was to not live in isolation from each other, because your own salvation is no good if you cannot help others.  Pretty powerful words if you ask me.
 

The small holes carved into the rock here were actually pigeon dens etched by the monks around 300 AD. The monks used the pigeon droppings as natural fertilizer in their fields also.


Around the time this site was settled, wild horses roamed the hills and valleys. Even though these wild animals have since died out, it resulted in the Romans giving Cappadocia its name, meaning "Land of the Beautiful Horses." Also, Roman armies used these wild horses in battle (possibly further leading to their extinction).


Unfortunately, photos were not allowed in most of the settlement. However, I did get this one in one of the dining areas carved into the rock. If you notice behind the rock table there is a wall painting of the Last Supper.


The view of the city from one of the highest points on the site. You can see some of the cave homes carved into the side of the rocks. Amazing!

Next stop- a panoramic spot to catch another wonderful view!


This town is called Uch Hasir, meaning "Castle of a High Hill." From 1600-2000, this hill was used by the Ottoman government as a garrison and ammunition warehouse.


This tree is chuck fill of evil eyes. These blue figures refer to a local Chrisian legend that the evil in people rests in their eyes. So, by having these facing away from your house (like over your doorway), it will protect you from evil.


Puppies!!!

Next stop- Lunch!


This traditional dish of Cappadocia is called dama. Inside the clay pot is beef, vegetable, and a delectable beef broth. Pair that with Turkish ravioli (manti) and we have one awesome meal.


It order the the meat out, you have to crack open the jar be whacking it with the back of a knife. Here is Liz giving it a shot. The final result is in the foreground.

Next stop- The Scenery!!!
I don't think these need explanation other than I LOVE THE PANAORAMA FEATURE!!!




Here we are!


This entire workshop has been in this Turkish family for more than 200 years, all carved into the rock. This setup has been beneficial for the family because the temperature remains constant all year round under the ground (my guess is about 60 degrees).


This master potter has been making bowls, plates, goblets, Hittite style pitchers, and all for more than 25 years. Here, he ended up making a shallow bowl.


These amazing pieces are all hand made and hand painted, taking hours upon hours to complete. Once these are made, they must be dried in the molds they are made in (if necessary) for 2 weeks, then dry on a shelf for 2 weeks, then fired in a 1200 degree Celsius kiln for 16 hours.  Following this firing, the piece is hand painted using colors made from natural minerals and ore, then coated in glaze. Lastly, they are fired again in a 1040 degree Celsius kiln for 8 hours. Then voila!


This man has been painting these pieces for more than 40 years! That's insane!


This is one of the most ancient methods of pottery spinning in the ancient world, the kickwheel. This pottery wheel is powered by the potter's foot by kicking the base and getting it to turn. This potter is making the vases behind him, and can hold up to 1 liter of liquid. During Hittite times, they would fill these with wine and carry them over their shoulder (arm through the hole) to their ceremonies.

Next: the Underground City

Here is the entrance to the city, most likely occupied by Christian people looking to escape persecution from the Roman army (where it was illegal to practice Christianity). Only about 5% of the city has been excaved to this point.


This urn, after scientific analysis, was determined to contain wine during this time, which they made within large pools carved into the rock (look below).



This was the main food storage area for this part of the city, acting like a large pantry with food stored in the floor and walls (the hole).


No choking from lack of air here! These ventilation shafts kept the air fresh and could support many thousands of people if need be (most guesses are somewhere around 10,000 people).


This stone door (there are many located at the end of tunnels only one person wide and less than 5 feet tall), was used as a guard against the invading armies. If an army did invade, all the people would move further into the city, blocking the way with these doors. Also, people could sit in shafts just above the door and stab intruders through another hole in the wall, another line of defense.


We're a bit too tall....

Final Stop- HIGHLIGHTS!

Mehmet at the Open Air Museum: "There is a fresco of a naked man with his genetalia covered by a small plant. One time I was doing a tour and called it a little bush and they all laughed at me." We did too...

Everyone: "Sheep!"
Liz: "and a random goat..."

And we return to the pottery shop to see Amy trying her hand at the kickwheel. It proved more difficult than we expected... (Lovin' the pants!)


That's all for now! Our alarms are set for a ridiculous hour... ECGT signing off!

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